Wednesday, 1 February 2023

Tablet Weaving: weaving a tubular filled cord

 Tablet Weaving

I have been exploring different ways of weaving cords - in particular filled cords that is cords with a central filling core.here is a comparison between two methods of weaving tubular cords. 

Tubular cords without a central core.


Here is a drawdown for a flat woven band.  There are 13 warp ends. 

1. STC heddle

This is a new design of heddle which enables tubular bands to be woven.  Tubular bands can be woven on a four shaft loom and this heddle uses the same weaving technique.  For people without a four shaft loom, this new heddle is a cheaper, easily portable alternative.  UIt can be woven with a backstrap.


With the STC heddle cord and the band loom cord the unwoven warp threads are held horizontally in the same order. However, on the STC heddle the warp is in two layers: a top layer of warp and a bottom layer of warp. 

This is the same method as using a four shaft loom to weave tubular cloth.  Here is the threading chart for weaving a tubular band on the STC heddle.



1st pick: Raising the heddle brings the warp threads in the holes to the top. The shuttle goes from left to right through the top layer.   Top layer on surface: white / blue / blue / white

2nd pick: Raising the heddle brings the warp ends through the slots to the bottom. The shuttle goes from right to left through the bottom layer. Lower layer on surface: blue / blue / white


It is important to start weaving from the left side ( shuttle in left hand) to the right side of the heddle.

3rd pick: Lowering the heddle brings the warp ends through the slots to the top. The shuttle goes from left to right. Top layer on surface: white / grey / white

4th pick: Lowering the heddle brings the warp ends through the holes to the bottom. The shuttle goes from right to left. Bottom layer on surface: white / dark blue / white


Whilst weaving the two warp layers are separate and the band at the point of weaving will show one side of the band. Each layer of warp is horizontal.

Once released from tension, the tubular band will spiral. 


This cord does not have a central core. 

2. Tablet weaving

Using the same warp colours I threaded four tablets with the warp. I used two threads as a central core. The aim is to weave a tubular cord with a central core thread. The core thread is two strands of 3/2 cotton.



There are four cards, each with four holes labelled A, B, C and D. Note that one card only has one thread and the other three holes are empty.


The back post indicates the unwoven end of the warp.  The front post indicates the weaving end of the cord. 


It is very important to thread the cards carefully.  The warp ends in holes A and B must be S threaded. This means that the warp ends are threaded through holes A and B behind the card and emerge in front of the card. 
The warp ends in holes C and D are Z threaded. This means that the warp ends are threaded through the holes from the front of the card and emerge behind the card. 

Core thread.

The centre core of the tubular band is not threaded through any hole although it could be threaded through the square hole in one of the cards.  It will also work if the centre core threads are threaded individually through the square central holes in two of the cards. 

The weave structure is double weave with the top and bottom layers joined together by the spiralling weft. The layers of weaving are warp-faced because the weft is pulled tight so that the warp ends hide the weft and the core threads.

There are only 13 warp threads which means that one card has only 1 warp end.  I found that putting a shaped rod through the centre square hole holds the cards together and prevents the card with only one warp thread falling out of place.  For this threading therefore I did not thread the core threads through the square hole in the cards but left them to go over the centre rod. This rod is tied with a cord so that it will not fall out when weaving.  It can be used as a turning rod.

cards with central turning rod.



Remember as weaving progresses the centre cord will become slack. This slack should be taken up at the far end of the warp. 

The Weaving Sequence. 

To weave, take the shuttle in the left hand and turn the cards so that the A corner is at the top leaving the C corner at the bottom.

Two sheds A and C


 As you can see, this means that there are three layers of warp. The A layer has 3 warp ends. The C layer has four  warp ends. 

1. The shuttle goes through under layer A and then is taken into the right hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns on top of layer C. Tug weft to tension.
2. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn backwards so that the B corner is at the top leaving the D corner at the bottom. The B layer has three warp ends.  The lower D layer has three warp ends.

Two sheds B and D


3. The shuttle goes through under layer B and is taken into the right hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns on top of D. Tug weft to tension.
4. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn so that the A corner is at the top leaving the C corner at the bottom.  Repeat.


When weaving, the cord does not show any twist.  Once the cord is released, the twist appears. The weft spirals through the cord when weaving which makes the twist in the woven cord. 

Weaving a flat band

With this threading of the cards you can also weave a flat band. The weaving sequence is different.

1. The shuttle goes through shed A and then is taken into the right hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns through shed C. Tug weft to tension.
2. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn backwards so that the B corner is at the top leaving the D corner at the bottom. The B layer has three warp ends.  The lower D layer has three warp ends.

Here the sequence changes.  The weft does not join the warp into a circle but goes back without closing one edge. 

3. The shuttle goes through the warp in shed D and is taken into the right hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns through shed B. Tug weft to tension.
4. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn so that the A corner is at the top leaving the C corner at the bottom.  Repeat.


As you can see, the core floats on the flat band. 

Here is a link to my YouTube video showing this type of weaving with 19 warp ends. 

https://youtu.be/ctJHw7gZZKA


 Here is the drawdown of the band.



This cord has 19 warp ends. This means that one card is threaded with only 3 warp ends. The warp and weft is double knit cotton and the centre core is four strands of 3/2 cotton. 

Here is the threading diagram


The tube is woven in double weave in a warp-faced structure.  The weft and central filling core are hidden by the warp threads. 

Threading the centre core threads.

The core is 4 strands of 3/2 cotton. I have threaded one strand through the square centre hole in card 2, two strands through the centre hole in card 3 and one strand through the centre hole in card 4. (All the core threads could be threaded through one centre square hole if preferred).

Remember as weaving progresses the core thread will become loose. It will need to be tightened at the non-weaving end to prevent it tangling in the warp threads. 

Weaving Sequence.

To weave, take the shuttle in the right hand and turn the cards so that the A corner is at the top leaving the C corner at the bottom.

 As you can see, this means that there are three layers of warp. The A layer has 5 red warp ends. The C layer has four blue warp ends with one empty hole. the centre layer holds the core and all the other warp ends.

The centre filling core is threaded 

1. The shuttle goes through shed A and then is taken into the left hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns through shed C. Tug weft to tension.

Shed A and Shed C with the centre threads and core
 in the middle

2. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn so that the B corner is at the top leaving the D corner at the bottom. The B layer has five warp ends: red, white, red, white and red.   The lower D layer has five warp ends: blue, white, white, blue and blue.

3. The shuttle goes through shed  B and is taken into the left hand. Tug weft to tension. The shuttle returns through shed D. Tug weft to tension.

4. Now take all the cards and turn them one quarter turn so that the A corner is at the top leaving the C corner at the bottom.

Here is the woven filled tubular cord. 


I hope you enjoy exploring this different method for weaving filled tubular cords. 

Susan J Foulkes  February 2023


Sunday, 1 January 2023

Happy New Year

This year starts with an online workshop about weaving tubular cords with a disc.  I have rediscovered this technique and I will be demonstrating how these tubular cords can be woven. 

Braid  Society Online Workshop January 2023

 Weaving a tubular filled cord with a disc.

Susan J Foulkes

This technique is not well known so I hope that participants will share their experience of weaving and their own exploration of how these cords can be used. The article in Strands October 2022 outlines my own experiences in learning to weave with this equipment. 

weaving a tubular filled cord

The workshop will be available to members of Braids and Bands:


I hope you join us. 


I wish everyone a happy and peaceful New Year.

Susan J Foulkes  2023







Thursday, 1 December 2022

Japanese Lotus bags.

 

A Japanese Lotus bag with drawstring cords

I have made a few Japanese Lotus bags.  These are very simple to make and make lovely presents.  

I found this lovely tutorial on the web.  This sort of sewing I can do. Very easy and uncomplicated.

https://www.sewingmachinesplus.com/sewblog/lotus-drawstring-pouch-gift-bags-purse-tutorial/

Take two pieces of cloth and put the wrong sides together.  Sew around the edge leaving a small space so that it can be turned inside out.

Now, sew around the edge. Do refer to the web instructions for detailed instructions.. 


Here I have used a small piece of Japanese cloth with a grey silk for the lining. The next stage is to turn in the four corners. These must be accurately measured and pinned in place. 


Here are two bags ready to be sewn.  Sew a straight line across each of the corners.  These form the channels for the drawstring cords. 

The next stage is more difficult to explain.  The corners are folded together and sewn. Then another line of sewing produces the shape of the bag. Be careful not to sew across the openings for the drawstrings. 

Turn the bag inside out so that the lining appears at each corner. 
Sewing a seam from top to bottom 




Three sewn corners.

Now turn the bag inside out so that the lining is now on the inside. 



Completed bags waiting for the drawstring cords. 

I made several drawstring cords using an unusual method. These cords are woven and have a filling so they are very sturdy.  The Braid Society is running an online workshop in January 2023 about weaving tubular filled cords. Do join in if you want to find out more about this mystery weaving disc method. 

https://groups.io/g/braidsandbands


Here is one of the silk cords.  I used 60/2 silk with several strands for each of the 13 warp ends. I used two colours of silk with 13 warp ends.
 2 yellow / 1 blue / 3 yellow / 2 blue / 1 yellow / 1 blue / 1 yellow / 2 blue 



Here is the drawdown with the pattern.  The warp ends are threaded into a circular disc with an additional central core thread. The weft is silk. 


Close up of one of the woven filled silk drawstring cords


The pattern spirals around the cord. I used a different pattern for the second cord. 


Japanese lotus bag with two woven silk cords. The blue material is Japanese and the silk lining is from China.

This type of weaving is unusual and although more time consuming than simply twisting a cord. It can produce an interesting variety of patterns.

Festive greetings

Susan J Foulkes December 2022.

Tuesday, 1 November 2022

Beanies

 At our last Guild meeting we had a 'beanie' event.  Members were invited to bring their collection of hand made hats - knitted and crocheted.  I had not heard of an event like this but they are popular around the world.  It all started in Australia. I quote the web site - 'The event began with a 'beanie party' organised by Adi Dunlop.......  The festival was organised to sell beanies crocheted by Aboriginal women in remote communities.' 

Read more at this web site.  

https://www.discovercentralaustralia.com/events/alice-springs-beanie-festival

Our event was more modest but people brought their own 'beanies' and what a lot of stories emerged. 


The hats spread out over several tables and hung on an imaginative stand.


Members who brought hats, talked about the design, method of making, and why they were made. It was fascinating.





Here are some close up pictures.





 I loved this purple creation.


If you have not read this book - do - its a celebration of the older woman.

This was a lovely event and we are thinking of having it every year.  it gives a chance for members to talk about their work and for others to appreciate the creativity and the care in making.  Plus, there were many useful tips for knitters. 


Susan J Foulkes 1st November 2022



Saturday, 1 October 2022

Nordic and World Braids and Bands 2022

 Busy Hands  (and feet)

The conference was a wonderful experience.  Do think about the next conference in 2025 in the USA.  The skills taught in the week ranged from beginners classes to extending the more experienced.  The participants learned from their tutors but also from each other. I always find that I learn from my classes as well as teaching them. 

Busy Hands

Here are a selection of images showing working hands (and feet). This is only a selection of the classes. I am sure that you will identify the skills being displayed.  



















The conference was amazing.  There were two lectures in the morning before classes commenced and generally one lecture afterwards, before the evening meal.
The conference proceedings are now on sale. 



The Proceedings are now for sale at £38 plus postage and packing on the website, www.braidsociety.com under books.   This book which is 234 pages with 45 contributing authors is a fabulous book and worth every penny.   If you don't purchase it now, why don't you put it on your Christmas list.

Alternatively, you can  email booksales@braidsociety.com  stating:
Which book(s) you require
Where in the world the package should be sent
Whether you will pay by Paypal (preferred) or alternatively by cheque or direct bank transfer.

Overview of contents

Lectures

Bente Skogass – A glimpse into tablet weaving from early Viking times

Ulla Mannering & Charlotte Rimstad – The Danish Prehistoric Cord and Band Tradition

Randi Stoltz – Band weaving in Norway over 2000 years

Ragnheidur Thorsdottir – Table weaving in Iceland

Sonja Berlin – Why choose Tablet weaving?

Anna Sjursen – Sami weaving, traditions and techniques

Noomi I Dali – Faroese cords bands, braids and garters

Katia Johansen – After the Vikings: The decline of hands in Denmark

Techniques 

Kumihimo – articles by Shirley Berlin (Canada), Makiko Tada & Masumi Tada (Japan), Diane Watanabe (Japan), Bob Galivan (USA), Yuko Yoshida (Japan)

Kuteuchi, Loop Braiding – articles by Masumi Tada (Japan), Jacqui Carey (UK),  Jean Leader (UK), Joy Boutrup (Denmark)

Cords, Whipcording, Lucet – articles by Annette Herbst, Ziggy Rytka (UK), Georgia Olsen (USA)

Ply Split Braiding – articles by Julie Hedges (UK), Katoko Kitade (Japan), Erroll Pires (India)

Rigid Heddle, Inkle – articles by Shahla Amini (Iran), Susan Foulkes (UK), Ane Rasmussen (Denmark), Dee Sayce (UK), Tamaki Takagi (Japan), Laura Thode (USA), Marieke Kranenberg (Netherlands)

Sprang – articles by Carol James (Canada), Bodil Dago (Norway)

Tablet weaving – articles by Inge Dam (Canada), Bente Skogass (Norway), Rasmus Jorgensen (Denmark), Cathy Smith (UK), Randi Stoltz (Norway), Louise Strom (Sweden), Keiko Kusakabe (Japan), John Mullarkey (USA)

Other techniques – articles by Anna Sparr (Denmark), Ilta Hamari (Finland), Gil Dye (UK), Lena Bjerresgard (Denmark)