Durham Weaver: Bands from Mora, Sweden

Bands from the Dalarna in central Sweden use a variety of weave structures. One type of threading uses three background threads in between each pattern thread.

In particular the bands from Mora use this threading. Moraband by Barbro Wallin presents 100 patterns for these bands. It is published by the Zorn Museum in Mora, Sweden. http://www.zorn.se/

Moraband by Barbro Wallin

I met Barbro when I was last in Sweden and she demonstrated how she weaves her beautiful bands on her band loom.

Inkle Loom Instructions

Here is the threading for an inkle loom with three background threads in between each pattern thread.

Threading for the inkle loom using thirteen pattern threads.

The pattern threads are numbered and indicated in red. The background and border threads are labelled B. The pattern threads are at least twice as thick as the background and border threads. Using wool for the pattern threads

At the borders of the band, the weave structure is warp faced plain weave. However, in the centre part of the band behind the pattern threads the weft goes over 2 and under one warp end.
With this structure, the pattern threads tend to be more than twice as thick as the background threads and are often in wool.

Chart for band in YouTube video

I used this pattern draft which comes from a Leksand band. To help with the weaving, I transferred the pattern to a chart.

The coloured squares indicate the pattern threads that should appear on the surface of the band. The empty squares indicate that the pattern threads are on the lower warp.

The rows with dots indicate that the pattern threads are on the top of the warp.

The rows without dots indicate that the pattern threads are on the lower layer.

When the pattern threads are on the top layer, the unwanted pattern threads need to be selected and pushed down to the lower layer.

When the pattern threads are on the lower layer, the pattern threads that should appear on the surface need to be selected.

The weft is not pulled as tightly as in other weave structures. When pulled very tightly the weave is warp faced, If it is pulled less tightly, the weave may be warp dominant or balanced. If you pull the weft too tightly across the warp the pattern will not be as clear and may distort. You need to practice to get the best tension and width of the band.

On the inkle loom, separate the patterned threads by using a 'clip it'.