Monday 1 May 2023

Weaving a tubular cord on an inkle loom and with a weaving disc.

Weaving a filled tubular cord with a weaving disc. 


 This blog accompanies two articles in the Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers.   https://journalwsd.org.uk/

Journal for Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, 285 Spring 2023  A Weaving Disc - an exploration of history and uses. Part 1,  and 285 2023, Summer, A Weaving Disc - part 2. 

What is disc weaving?

I have been exploring a little known weaving implement: a weaving disc. The disc seems to have originated in Indonesia but also appears in Lithuania and Russia.  

These weaving discs are be made with a odd number of holes around the edge and a central hole for the filling material. I have used discs with 13, 15, 19, 21 and 25 holes.

A filled tubular cord can be woven using a disc with a circular arrangement of holes and a central hole for the core thread. It produces a cord with a firm structure and the angle of twist can be altered whilst weaving. 
 
However a tubular cord can also be woven on an inkle loom. It is useful to examine this type tubular cord before examining the filled tubular cord. 


Weaving a tubular cord on an inkle loom


 Inkle Loom.

Weave drawdown for 13 threads

There are thirteen warp ends alternately threaded across the loom either through a heddle or over the top of the bar. There are two sheds so the weave structure is plain weave. The weft pulls the warp threads close together so the band itself is warp faced plain weave. The warp threads are in a single horizontal layer across the inkle loom. 

Weaving a flat band

The band loom cord was first woven as a flat band. The shuttle was entered first from one side then the shed was changed and the shuttle entered from the other side. 


Weaving a tubular band

To weave a tubular cord the weft was continually entered from the same side and pulled tight. This pulls the flat band around on itself so that the tube is formed. 

The twist in the pattern occurs because the weft spirals whilst weaving even though the warp threads are in a horizontal line. This twist is permanent and cannot be varied.


Weaving a filled tubular cord with a weaving disc. 

What is disc weaving?

With the warp ends arranged in a circle and a central core thread, a patterned cord can be woven in warp-faced plain weave. The weft is not visible as the warp ends are pulled tightly together. The central core thread makes the cord strong. 

The weft is entered from the same side for the whole of the weaving. The disc is rotated. This means that unlike other weaving methods, the warp is not in a static horizontal plane but moves around as the weft is entered. 

As there are no books about this technique I had to experiment to find out the most efficient and effective way of weaving.  I discovered that the disc itself does not need to be circular. It is the pattern of holes that need to be arranged in a circle. 




A disc with 13 holes and a central hole


A cardboard square with 13 warp holes
 

Visualising the spiral pattern. 

The  SeiZenn - Band Weaving Pattern Editor. This is an amazing resource. This can be found at: 

  https://www.raktres.net/seizenn/#/

The software now includes a disc option which you can access from the home page. Here is a quick link. 

https://www.raktres.net/seizenn/#/disk  This means that you can design a pattern for your tubular cord using this software.  It is a great addition to a weavers box of tools.

Here is a 13 thread pattern using this software. 



Here is the same 13 warp thread pattern as shown in the drawdown for the inkle loom but here you can see it as a spiral woven tube. 


close up of the filled tubular cord.

I also made a YouTube video to accompany the two articles :  Disc Weaving: making a tubular filled cord 

  https://youtu.be/W7miDg2bix4

The video demonstrates how to start weaving; how to find the point of weaving and how to weave. The thickness of the core threads alters the feel and flexibility of the cord. 

These  cords are flexible and have many uses. They can be made in a variety of threads: cotton, silk, wool and with a variety of core materials.  I have woven cotton cords with raffia, jute and rattan as the core thread.


Susan J Foulkes May 2023