Workshop Week One: Band weaving with a rigid heddle

I am running an online workshop for the Braid Society on Braids & Bands group   https://groups.io/g/braidsandbands  This blog is part of the workshop for week one.
The Woolery in the USA, has published a post about the workshop  https://woolery.com/blog/   If you live in the USA, their online shop is open for equipment etc.




I love band weaving.  The back strap is such a practical way to weave and very portable. I also love weaving equipment, from the simple to the more highly decorated. I have quite a collection and very often have more than one is use.

My one regret is that I have not found a Sami heddle made from reindeer antler.  On my recent rip to Jokkmokk, I saw a lovely heddle in an exhibition in the Sami Douji Centre but it was bought as soon as the exhibition opened.  The person waited in the queue to get in, and immediately purchased it. Here is a picture of the heddle and the person who made it.  It was a work of art and takes a skill learned over a considerable period and many months to make.

Heddle and maker

Owning something is not really the point.  Owning something that has been made with considerable skill and that I can use, adds another dimension to weaving.  I love my large loom and find myself stroking the wood sometimes. It is the feel of the object.  Handmade heddles are such a joy to use. I feel that I am in touch with the maker as well as in touch with the skills that I need to weave. In Scandinavian countries a decorated rigid heddle was often given as a betrothal gift and there are some beautiful examples in museums.


Here are some of my standard rigid heddles.

Estonian Heddle and shuttle

Here are some of my standard heddles currently in use.  I bought a set of beautiful heddles in Boras, Sweden many years ago and they are simply lovely to hold. They still sell some of the designs.

The two heddles on the right are from vavkompaniet.

https://www.vavkompaniet.se/tools-for-textile-craft/heddles/

My first workshop online was a number of years ago. At the time, rigid heddles were not easy to find.  I tried making my own and shared the process.  Nowadays,heddles are widely available and  with the advent of 3D printing and an interest in making weaving tools, you do not have to acquire new skills to start weaving.

Here are the series of pictures I posted.  I am not a wood worker, so carpenters look away now! These heddles were not works of art but I enjoyed the process of working out how to make something within the severe limits of my skill.

Making a rigid heddle

1.  You will need: wooden coffee stirrers,   glue, fine sand paper, wire wool, a drill. And a length of wood, approx 24 mm in depth.  This should be flat one side but may be shaped on the other.

Choose coffee stirrers  that are straight and not warped.  Sand them to ensure that they are completely smooth. Mark the centre and drill a small hole in each stick.

2.  Sand them again and finish with wire wool.  Make sure that the sides of the sticks are smooth.  You will need more stirrers than you eventually use for the heddle.  Some will splinter or split.  In others,  you may find that your drilled hole is not central.

3.  Cut four 24 sticks the length of one coffee stirrer.  These will form the top and bottom of the heddle. Take two coffee stirrers and glue them to two of the wide sticks on the long edge.  Leave until the glue is dry.

Now spread glue on the wide sticks and place one coffee stirrer at each end. 

4.  Start to place the rest of the narrow sticks into place.  Adjust the gap between each stick.  Make the gaps as even as possible. 

5.  Glue the other two wide sticks.  Stick them on top of the narrow sticks. Place a weight on the completed heddle and leave the glue to dry.

6.  You will need to sand the top and bottom of the heddle. 

The heddle is now complete.   Usually, heddles have a handle on the bottom edge.  This helps to balance the heddle when weaving.  You can attach a small weight to the middle of the heddle on the bottom edge which should stop it twisting.

I made a number of heddles and gave them away, but I kept this one for myself. It is still in use.

Another home made standard heddle

I also tried to make my own band lock.

Making a Band Lock

You will need:
20 x 24mm wood no longer than 140mm
2 cup hooks
A thin strip of wood narrower than the first
A belt


I made a number of versions. This one uses a square section length of wood.

Another system is using a cotton reel and a ‘clip it’ with a cord to go around your waist.

Using a band lock

Band locks are not new. They have been found in Etruscan graves.  They were made of bronze.  Two identical strips with a hook on each end hold the warp ends in place.  The  back strap was tied around this band lock to clamp the warp ends tightly.  I tried to find a blacksmith to make me a copy but I was unsuccessful. 

This is from an illustration in an article by Margarita Gleba.  However, there is no indication that they used the band lock in this way.  They may have woven in the opposite direction.  If the tablets are near to the band lock, you can weave over the tablets and beat away from you.  This means that any overtwist in the warp ends can be easily undone by the weaver as the unwoven warp ends are wrapped around and through the band lock. 

This band lock uses a slightly rounded length of wood. 

When you tension the warp, the band locks into place.

Week One of the workshop for the Braid Society, gives examples of woven bands from northern Europe, South America and Japan. Remember you can use an inkle loom or a two shaft table or floor loom. You do not have to use a standard heddle.

A Striped Band 

Here is a band inspired by a patterned band from Peru.

This is another beautiful Swedish heddle.

Close up of band.

Warp Chart

Blue                     6                                               6
Dk green                  2
Medium green              2
Emerald  green                 2
Yellow                                  1
White                                       1
Light pink                                      2
Medium pink                                    2
Bright pink                                           2
Burgundy                                                 1

There are 27 warp ends in total.  I used 4 ply sock yarn and the band width is 15mm. I love the way that the colours glow against the dark blue edges.

Here is the drawdown with the nine colours.

Nine colour Peruvian band

I hope you enjoy trying this band.  It is a great way to use up small quantities of yarn.

I have been making some book marks with an adapted  pattern but this time using 16/2 cotton.

Using a different yarn will alter the width of the band. i will be showing you the bookmarks and the revised pattern on another blog.


Of course other equipment can be used. I am weaving a red and white band for a belt on my floor inkle loom.

I am using double knit cotton two colours  with a red weft.

Warp Chart

red        11        1     1      2    1     1     2     1      1      12
white            1      2     1     1     2    1      1     2      1




Here is the draw down.  There are 45 warp ends in total.  The width of the band on the loom is 3 cms  1.25 inches.

Here is another way of displaying the band pattern.  We will be looking at this in a later blog.

Next week there will more patterns for you to try

Weaving equipment can be bought online from Stoorstalka who ship world-wide. They are also publishing the booklets for the online weaving workshop. I want to encourage as many people as possible to get weaving!   Here is the link  https://shop.stoorstalka.com/en/products/workshop/

All the bands in the workshop can be woven using a standard rigid heddle with a band weaving shuttle.

Susan J Foulkes  May 1st 2020

Workshop at the Old Kennels in June

Workshop June 2017
The Old Kennels

The Old Kennels - the conservatory and the gazebo.

Thursday 15th June and Friday 16th June 2017

This two day workshop on Swedish Band Weaving provided the opportunity for a small group to learn how to weave patterned bands using a double slotted heddle and backstrap. The Old Kennels prides itself on organising courses which have a small groups of participants so that tutors can tailor the workshop for individual needs and skills.My workshop has nine participants and filled very quickly.

Day One

• Learned how to set up a backstrap and rigid heddle in a good weaving position.
• Start to weave a selection of heart and flower patterns or knots and meanders.
• Started a band neatly.
• Learned how to add in a new weft thread.
• Gained a good understanding of the pattern draft and weave structure.
• Examined a range of different woven bands from Sweden.

Day Two

• Opportunity to weave more patterns of choice.
• Learn how to make a warp and thread the heddle.
• Learned how to finish a band neatly.
• Examined different ways of finishing bands such as decorative tassels and knots.
• Learned about lettering and started to weave a letter.
• Learned how to design a decorative border.

The setting is idyllic and the weather was very hot indeed. We started the workshop in the conservatory but soon moved outside to the gazebo.

Inside the conservatory

One of the delights of the Old Kennels are the alpacas and the cats.

Unfortunately, it was too hot for the alpacas to stay outside.  However, Christine managed to take this lovely photograph.

Some of the newly shorn alpacas.

One cat in particular liked to feel part of the workshop. Sylvester was quite a character.  He would leap onto the work table and find the place where he would be most in the way.  He then would fall instantly asleep!  He was the most restful cat I have known.

The best place to sleep

All the heddles were ready warped so that the group could begin quickly.  I demonstrated how to start the woven band and the first few picks.  Then everyone could have a go.

Demonstrating the start of the band.

We had a break and then on return it was to find Sylvester stretched out as usual.

An even better place to sleep

The booklet to accompany the workshop gives lots of patterns for hearts and flowers.  We started with hearts but everyone soon moved on to the pattern of their choice.

Following the pattern.

The first two hearts

Lunch was amazing.  I am pleased that we were only there for two days as the food was plentiful and very very tempting.

After lunch and for the following day, we moved outside. Having the opportunity to work outside was great.  The gazebo offered shade from the sun but was also cool.

working outside in the gazebo

On the second day, Christine started to weave letters and produced quite a long piece.  Unfortunately I was so busy I did not have time to take many photographs and it was soon time for the workshop to end.

A sample of work at the end of the first day.

I managed to get together pieces of work from day one. People who had never tried this type of weaving before managed to complete many designs.

Looking through the brochure made me keen to try an attend a workshop next year.

Take a look at some of the wide variety of courses that they provide at this lovely venue.
The Old Kennels at  http://theoldkennels.co.uk/

The Old Kennels,
Stentwood,
Dunkeswell,
Devon, EX14 4RW
tel. 01823 681138

Thank you to all the participants and to Christine for sending me some of her photographs.  I hope that you all had as much fun as I did.

Online Band Weaving Workshop with the Braid Society

 October 2017

Do check out the details for the online workshop in October.  The details are on the home page of my blog.

My travels around the Baltic region have shown me the colourful heritage in many countries. I would like to share some of the lovely patterns with you in this online workshop.

The workshop will be spread over three weeks and will be open to anyone who has joined the Yahoo group, Braids and Bands. All the patterns will have 13 pattern threads.

If you are a member of the Braid Society, there will be a fourth week with more complex patterns.  Do think about joining the Braid Society.

Happy Weaving

Susan J Foulkes July 2017

Textile Museum in Prato Italy

Museo del Testuto

Prato is a much overlooked holiday destination as it is near to Florence.  A short train journey takes you to Prato, a lovely town which is Tuscany's second city.  It has a connection to textiles dating back to the 12th century and is still involved in textiles today.  Of course it has a textile museum to celebrate this connection.

I love visiting textile museums. There is always something new to learn about textiles and this museum was no exception.

The Museo del Testuto was founded in 1975 but is now housed in an old textile factory.  The building is impressively large.

The internal courtyard

Here is the museum entrance. As usual there were many school children on visits to the museum.

The museum entrance

Inside the entrance there was a small but well stocked shop.  The books and materials were very tempting but had to wait until I had visited the museum itself.

The museum shop

The museum has a collection of ancient textiles as well as modern.  Their extensive archive covers contemporary fabrics from 1976 to the present day.
There are four main rooms.  The first is full of ancient textiles and the light levels have to be kept low to preserve the fabrics. There is a large area of materials and processes. There is a hall of Prato City showing how Prato became involved in textiles and what the processes were. Textiles from the 12th century until 1950 and finally the Prato Hall and the fashion system which covers the changes from 1960 to 2000.

It is quite a story. There are many old pieces of weaving equipment some of which seem to be in use, presumably for demonstrations.

An old loom

A warping frame

Materials and Processes.

One area was particularly impressive. the materials and processes were very well displayed and presented.  I have not seen a better example of interactive displays which are so informative.  the notices were also in English.

Nowadays, people do not know where nor how material is made. The boards were very useful but even more impressive were the handling samples.

Here you can seen a small part of the collection of handling samples.  Every material seem to be represented even artificial yarns.

It was here that I learned something new.  I had no idea that yarn could be made from the Broom plant, yet here it is in its raw form and with a sample of material.

The broom material, yarn and raw fibre.

A cloe up of broom fibre and yarn.

 Dyeing

 Dyeing was also explained with impressive detail.

Cloth finishing

One process which is often overlooked is that of cloth finishing.  Again, there were a selection of fabrics showing the effects of different types of finishing process. I learned a lot from this section.

There were also a few colourful sample books on display. I would love to have access to their archive collection!

If you ever visit this part of Tuscany, do go to this museum.  It is a treasure house.  The town of Prato is overshadowed by its more famous neighbour, Florence, but a day trip there has made me want to see more.

I came home with a couple of books from the museum.

This book about tartan is in English and Italian.  It was published for an exhibition held in the museum.  It has an interesting historical background about tartan. The section that I was most intrigued with is about tartan as an inspiration for contemporary fashion design.

The other book is about Prato - its history and the stories of the people and places.

I am so pleased that I found this lovely book thanks to a very helpful assistant in the shop.

The town museum in the Palazzo Pretorio itself was stunning and delightfully quiet after the crowds in Florence.  The Palazzo Pretorio was the old city hall in the  town centre. It houses the the Civic Museum of Prato, which was reopened on September 2013.  The art collection was wonderful and beautifully displayed.


Here are the web addresses if you want to find out more.

Museo del Testuto Prato    http://www.museodeltessuto.it/

They also have a YouTube presence.   https://www.youtube.com/user/museodeltessuto

Museuo del Palazzo Pretorio   http://www.palazzopretorio.prato.it/en/

We had a lovely holiday in Florence in March which is a jewel of a city but Prato was a revelation.

Happy textile adventures!

Advance Notice - Free Online Workshop on Band Weaving October 2017

In October  I will be presenting an online workshop for the Braid Society. Details have been posted in the Braid Society Newletter in June. This workshop is open to all.  However, you will need to join the Braid Society Yahoo group Braids and Bands if you want to take part. Check out the Braid Society Home page for details on how to join the yahoo group.  https://thebraidsociety.wildapricot.org/

Do consider joining the Braid Society. The Newsletters and the journal Strands are excellent. Becoming a member has additional benefits.  Don't forget the International Conference to be held in Kyoto, Japan in 2019.

Joining the Yahoo group Braids and Bands

Braids and Bands is a discussion group moderated by the Braid Society and primarily exists to provide members with information about Braid Society activities. Non members of the society with a genuine interest in braids and bands are also welcome to join this group. Members can ask questions about any narrow ware technique, or share details of their latest project.  There is a presentation on the home page which gives step by step guidance for joining and using the service.
You do not need to be a member of the Braid Society to join the Yahoo group but do consider joining the Braid Society.  It will bring extra benefits such as a wonderful journal  Strands and contact with a knowledgeable group of people who are willing to help with any queries about narrow wares. Another advantage is that the online workshop will have additional material for Braid Society members only.

Further details about the workshop will be posted on my blog and on Braids and Bands.  The workshop will be spread over three weeks and will give examples of band patterns from countries around the Baltic.  The fourth week is for Braid Society members only and will have additional patterns and information.

An inkle loom, a standard heddle or a double slotted Sunna heddle can be used, if you want to join in. Notes will be available for download and queries will be answered on the Braids and Bands Yahoo group. On previous online workshops, useful tips are contributed by many people taking part. We all learn from each other.

I am busy weaving the samples for the online course at the moment and I can promise you a colourful journey!

Susan  J Foulkes  May 2017

Update.

Thank you Moni, for recommending the book the Merchant of Prato by Iris Origo.  I have just received the copy I ordered and I am delighted to find that it is a history book.  It is based on an astonishing cache of over 150,000 documents which came to light in 1870.  It paints a portrait of medieval life in Tuscany.  What a lovely find.

Susan J Foulkes June 2017