Collapse Weave two

A new design which is to be dyed.

Weave structure: Plain weave

Warp and weft: 2/20 silk and an overtwisted wool yarn.

Overtwisted yarn can be tricky to put onto a loom.  Once the ends are cut, the overtwist can start to run out of the yarn. At each stage I tie the groups of threads together. This keeps the overtwist in the yarn.

Winding on 

Threading through the reed

Once I have threaded the ends through the reed I  tie them loosely onto the front beam.

A close up of the weaving.

This weave is loosely woven.  The weft alternates - two picks of wool to two picks of silk.  The wool is carefully tapped into place so that there is a gap between the picks. The first silk pick is tapped into place leaving the same gap as between the two wool picks.  The second silk pick is tapped into place so that it touches the first silk pick. This could be described as cramming and spacing. 

First sample

Reed 12 reed with one end per dent for the wool and two ends per dent for the 20/2silk

Width at reed:   28 inches   77 cm

                                                                           

Off Loom before washing    

Width         26 inches               

Length         11.5 inches   cm                      

After washing                

Width    approx           14.5 inches              

Length    approx      8.25 inches      20.5 cm

After washing I examined the sample carefully.  I would have liked the weave to be slightly closer together after washing so I thought that I would alter the sett and weave a second sample. 

First sample after washing and the second sample on the loom. 

Second sample

Reed 8 reed with one end per dent for the wool and two ends per dent for the 2/2- silk

Width at reed  25 inches  63.5 cm

                                                                                                 

Off Loom 

before washing              

  Width     23.5 inches  59 cm      

 length     7.75 inches  19.5 cm                      

After washing  

Width  approx   12 inches  30 cms

Length  approx    5 inches  13 cm       

I decided that the second sample was better so I used this sett for the final scarf.  

Long scarf

8 reed threading 1 1 2 (silk)

Before washing

Width at reed  23.5 inches   59 cm

Length before washing  119.5 inches  302 cm 

After washing

width  approx   12.5 inches    32 cm

length approx     81 inches    206 cms

The finished scarf has a lovely soft feel and a beautiful texture.  It has 'bounce' because of the collapse weave structure. This makes it difficult to measure exactly.  The fringe at each end has to be knotted as soon as it is off the loom. 

Completed scarf before dyeing

Closeup of texture

I am intending to dye this scarf. I am afraid that it has to added to the list of things to do! My pile of UFO's (unfinished projects) is growing longer by the week.

Susan J Foulkes

August 2023