Weaving patterned bands with 5 pattern threads

My latest book has been published by Schiffer. In the UK it will become available at the end of the month.

More than 140 patterns are included, along with principles for planning your own unique designs for contemporary uses such as straps, belts, bracelets, and even handfasting bands. The breathtaking range of colorful bands woven in Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Norway are explored and offer additional inspiration.'


You can order this book through the Handweavers Studio, London, on Amazon and from the Book Depository UK.

In the USA, it is available from The Woolery who are based in Frankfort, Kentucky: https://woolery.com/weaving-patterned-bands.html


I made two YouTube videos to accompany the book.

1. Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads:  https://youtu.be/9OUkBSN8LtI

2. Weaving a patterned band on a floor inkle loom:  https://youtu.be/k9Jhd80mBsQ

Weaving Patterned Bands

In this post I will discuss starting to weave with 5 pattern threads. This is an excellent way to start weaving if you have never tried before and a good introduction to this fascinating craft for young people. My book has 54 pattern charts for 5 pattern threads.

This post will show the threading for using a 9 pattern slot heddle, a 5 pattern slot heddle and an inkle loom (or standard heddle). For those of you with a 13 patten slot heddle, the threading will also be given. You will need to navigate the blog to find the appropriate section.

All the patterns can be woven using either a 9 pattern slot heddle, a standard heddle or an inkle loom.
There will be two further posts, one about weaving with 7 pattern threads next month and another about weaving with 9 pattern threads in November.

Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads. 

Threading the 9 pattern slot heddle. 

I made a YouTube video showing how to make the warp and thread a 9 pattern slot Sunna heddle.

You can also make the warp on a warping frame as shown in a previous blog. https://durhamweaver64.blogspot.com/2018/07/making-warp-and-threading-9-pattern.html

YouTube video: https://youtu.be/iE-my-qxFwA

NOTE: This 9 pattern slot heddle can be used to weave bands with 5, 7, and 9 pattern threads.

Using a 9 pattern slot heddle for bands with 5 pattern threads.

This blog will look at five pattern threads. Look at the threading chart. Note the empty slots on either side.

The threading chart

Here is the threading chart for using the 9 pattern slot heddle for 5 pattern threads. Note that there will be a total of four empty slots and holes on each side indicate by X.

For this band you can have a maximum of 14 border threads on each side. Look at the threading for the border threads. The sequence from the centre is long slot then hole and finishes with a warp thread through a hole. It is important to keep this sequence. Therefore there is an empty hole and an empty long slot as well as two empty pattern slots on each side.

You can see the empty slots and holes for the 9 pattern slot heddle.

Five pattern threads on a 9 pattern thread heddle. 

The Pattern Chart: noughts and crosses

This pattern chart is for 5 pattern threads. Only the pattern threads are shown on the chart.They are coloured purple and pale blue.  I think that it is helpful for beginners to have the centre pattern thread a different colour.

Here is the simple OXOX pattern which is a common pattern around the Baltic.

When weaving with only five pattern threads, you will need to pay particular attention to band width. Pull the weft to keep the band width even.

The heddle is lifted for the even numbered picks and lowered for the odd numbered picks. So when you start you will lift the heddle for pick A

Ignore the dots on the chart at this stage. They are a very useful guide when copying pattern charts and are particularly useful for weavers using an inkle loom.

Watch my YouTube video. 

It will be helpful at this stage to watch my video: Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads. I am using a 5 pattern slot heddle but the pick up is the same for using 5 pattern threads on a 9 pattern slot heddle. 

Here is the link: Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads

https://youtu.be/9OUkBSN8LtI

Setting up to weave. 

For this stage you will be inserting two sticks into two sheds to provide a firm straight base to start the weaving. 

Stage 1.

You need to attach the non-weaving end of the warp to a belt around your waist. This can be something as simple as a cord or a wider belt.
Tie the loose ends of the warp around the cord ensuring that the heddle is lying straight and not tilted.

Stage 2.

Deepening upon the colours of the background threads, wind some thread of the same colour onto the shuttle.
You will need two smooth sticks or coffee stirrers to start the woven band.
Look at the pattern chart.  Lift the heddle in your right hand and use the shuttle in your left hand. All the pattern threads will be in a straight line in the centre of the two layers of background threads.
For the first pick A you can see that there are three coloured squares.  Use the end of the shuttle to pick the first then the centre and then the first pattern thread. Do not take the shuttle through but turn it onto its side to hold the shed open. Now insert one of the sticks.

Stage 3

Now look at pick B. Lower the heddle with your left hand. take the shuttlein your right hand and pick up two pattern threads, 2 and 4. Turn the shuttle onto its side to hold the shed open then insert the second stick.
You have now provided a firm base on which to start weaving.

Starting the band.

You are now ready to use the weft.

1.Start again at pick A with the shuttle in your left hand.  Raise the heddle with your right hand and pick up the three pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares on the pattern chart. Take the shuttle through leaving a small tail of weft yarn on the left side.

2. Look at pick B. There are two coloured squares on the chart. Lower the heddle with your left and and use the tip of the shuttle to pick up pattern threads 2 and 4. Take the shuttle through and bring it to the fell on the band. You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle onto its edge and take the small tail of weft yarn through from the left side to the right. Take the shuttle through to the left.
You have now secured the weft at the beginning of the band so that it will not unravel.

3. Look at pick C. It is the same as pick A. Raise the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads.  Take the shuttle through to the right hand side and pull the weft taut.

4. Look at pick D. It is the same as pick C. Lower the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads.  Take the shuttle through to the left and pull the weft taut.

Weaving.

You are now ready to start the pattern. The pattern for this band is 18 picks.  Raise the heddle in your right hand. Take the shuttle in your left hand.

Pick 1
Start with pick 1 and carefully choose the correct pattern thread. For pick 1 only one square is coloured in. It is the centre pattern thread of the five. Insert the shuttle and pick up the centre pattern thread. Beat by taking the shuttle down to the fell of the band. You can now check that you have picked up the correct pattern thread.
Take the shuttle and weft through to the right leaving a tail of yarn on the left.

Pick 2
Lower the heddle with your left hand. Look at the pattern chart.  There are three pattern thread indicated. Pickup the centre three pattern threads with the point of the shuttle. Take the shuttle to the fell of the band and beat.  You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle on edge and feed the loose end of the weft thread into the shed so that it comes out on the right. Now take the shuttle through to the left. There are two weft threads in the same shed. This helps to prevent the weaving from unravelling when you have finished the band. Pull the weft on the shuttle to the left and the loose thread of weft to the right to make the band width narrow. The warp threads should cover the weft and the pattern threads should be touching.

Pick 3
Look at the pattern chart. There are five pattern threads showing on the surface.  This pick is easy. Raise the heddle with your right hand. Insert the shuttle under all the pattern threads. This brings them all to the surface. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band and beat. You should see all five pattern threads.


Here are two simple bands with these two motifs. The top band is in cotton and the bottom band is woven in wool.

Colour and material can make a difference. The top band is in pearl cotton and the bottom band is in wool.

Using a 13 pattern slot heddle. 

For those of you with a 13 pattern slot heddle, here is the threading diagram. All the grey squares represent holes or slots which will be empty.  Only two border threads are shown adjacent to the pattern threads.

The border threads need to follow the correct threading order for a plain weave structure.

With the 9 pattern slot heddle you can see that there is one border thread in a long slot after the pattern area then a slot and hole which are empty.  Then another border thread threaded through a hole then another empty slot and hole. The rest of the border area can be threaded normally.

With the 13 pattern slot heddle the plain weave threading for the border would contain more empty slots and holes making it difficult for a beginner to get the proper tension and width for the woven band.  It can be done but it requires patience and skill. I would recommend just using two border threads until you feel confident.

Here is the complete threading for the 13 pattern slot heddle. X denotes an empty hole or slot.
You can use up to 18 border threads on each side.

Threading chart for a 13 pattern slot heddle using only 5 pattern threads and 18 border threads on each side. 

Happy Weaving!

Using a standard heddle or an inkle loom.

Patterns can also be woven using a standard heddle or on an inkle loom.

Threading for standard heddle.

For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. The pattern threads are twice as thick as the background and border threads. For this threading there are four border threads on each side. The five pattern threads are shown in red.

When you raise the heddle, the centre pattern thread numbered 3 (and pattern threads 1 and 5) will appear on the surface. If you look carefully at the pattern draft you will see that some squares have small dots.  This indicates the pattern threads that will appear on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern.

YouTube Videos

 See my YouTube video: Weaving narrow warp faced bands.

Weaving a patterned band on a floor inkle loom:  https://youtu.be/k9Jhd80mBsQ

Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 5 pattern threads.

Here is a video from Stoorstalka using their band weaving kit for 5 pattern threads.


Weaving hearts with STOORSTÅLKA Band weaving kit Sunna 5

https://youtu.be/d2A1K8oEWTU

A close up of the Sunna double slotted heddle with 5 pattern slots.

This heddle can be used with a back strap, in a box loom or on a larger inkle loom.

Threading the Sunna 5 heddle.

Here is the threading for the Sunna heddle with 5 pattern slots. The 5 pattern threads are numbered and are indicated in red. They should be at least twice as thick as the background and border threads. You can use as many border threads as there are slots and holes in the heddle. I have only indicated four border threads on each side on this diagram. The Sunna 5 heddle has room for 12 border threads on each side.

Threading for Sunna 5 double slotted heddle

To help beginners learn to weave, there is a  useful videos from Stoorstalka. 

Weaving Zigzag pattern with Stoorstalka band weaving kit Sunna 5.

Click here to view it. https://youtu.be/1yY2Vm_xBPI

Pattern chart.

Weaving with the Sunna 5 heddle.

Pattern chart for arrows and a cross.

Here is a pattern for you to try with the Sunna 5 heddle. The five white pattern threads (shown as green on the weave draft) are threaded through the 5 shorter slots on the heddle. The pattern threads are twice as thick as the background and border threads. The pattern draft only shows the pattern threads which should appear on the surface of the band.

Here is the pattern chart for the simple pattern in white on a green background.

There are 40 picks for the pattern repeat but it is very easy to learn. Remember that on the odd numbered picks the heddle should be raised and the even numbered picks the heddle should be lowered.

The white pattern threads are twice the thickness of green background threads.  The weft is green.

Top side of woven band

Reverse side of woven band

Both sides of the band have lovely patterns.

Stockists.

The Sunna heddles and kit can be brought direct from Stoorstålka.

Stoorstålka sell rigid heddles and shuttles for weaving narrow bands. They ship items worldwide. They supply double slotted heddles (the Sunna heddles) and double holed heddles (the Beavi heddle) as well as standard heddles with long slots and holes. Their web site is https://shop.stoorstalka.com/en/start.html

If you are in the USA, Canada, Australia or Japan,  Stoorstålka have a dedicated web site at

https://bandweaving.com/

For Norway go to  https://no.stoorstalka.com/nb/

UK: London  

Here is a new outlet for the Sunna heddle including the Sunna 5 kit. They sell rigid heddles, inkle looms and yarn in very useful small amounts.Their shop is an Aladdin's cave.  Well worth browsing the online shop or better still visit their beautiful shop in London.  https://www.handweavers.co.uk/

Handweavers Studio London.

The Sunna 5 Kit:  everything you need to start to learn this wonderful craft.

  Happy weaving

Next month I will take you through weaving with 7 pattern threads.

My latest book has been published this month by Schiffer and is available from Handweavers Studio, and Amazon.

'Narrow bands woven in colorful patterns are a centuries-old part of Baltic craft tradition. The double slotted heddle makes patterned band weaving quicker to learn and easier to do, and this is the first book that offers beginners instructions for using it. The craft doesn't involve bulky equipment―all you need can be stored in a shoe box! Learn how to weave these beautiful bands step by step, from the simple 5 pattern threads to the more complex 7 and 9 patterns. Color photographs illustrate the instructions for learning to weave.

More than 140 patterns are included, along with principles for planning your own unique designs for contemporary uses such as straps, belts, bracelets, and even handfasting bands. The breathtaking range of colorful bands woven in Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Norway are explored and offer additional inspiration.'

You can order this book through the Handweavers Studio, on Amazon and the Book Depository UK.

In the USA, it is available from The Woolery who are based in Frankfort, Kentucky: https://woolery.com/weaving-patterned-bands.html

Susan J Foulkes September 2018

National Exhibition 2018 Textile Creations 15th - 29th July Glasgow

This exhibition is a gem.  Such wonderfully creative and inspiring pieces of work.  It is a pleasure to wander around seeing and with the sample pieces, feeling the textiles on display.

General view of the exhibition space

Sweaters, cardigans, tapestries, wall hangings - such a variety of exhibits.

I took many photographs.  If your work is displayed here and you are unhappy about it being made public, let me know and I will remove the picture. There is a lovely catalogue illustrating all the work which I am sure will be available to purchase after the exhibition for those who were unable to attend.

A particular delight is the open exhibition of non-juried work.  Anyone who submits a piece of work has it displayed here. It was to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

A small section of the non-juried work. 

A Mackintosh rose

The various interpretations of the theme are a delight.  I particularly appreciated that all the script describing the various items used the Mackintosh font. This aspect of the exhibition must have taken a long time to put together but it is a highlight.

One unusual piece was a Shetland Taatit rug.  These were intended for bed covers and were woven in two separate pieces. One half would be made by the family of the bride and the other by the family of the bridegroom. They would be stitched together just before the wedding. What a wonderful memento of the occasion.  It was created by Jess McCaffery from Edinburgh Guild.

The waistcoat in the background is by Rosemary Warren from the Somerset Guild.

A Shetland Taatit wedding rug

spinning samples

An exquisite shawl

This is one of the incredibly fine lace knitted shawls exhibited. It is by Phyllis Reeves from West Surrey using handspun Shetland fleece.  I am in awe of the skills needed to produce something so beautiful and delicate.

There were many scarves on show. This multicoloured scarf in silk and lambswool is by Janet Philips from the Online Guild.

Scarf by Janet Philips

Here is a lovely piece by Jennie Parry of the Braid Society.  They are braids made on a takadai using 57 bobbins. They are made of spun silk and paper. The background material is plain and twill weave woven using a wave shuttle.  I saw a wave shuttle in action when i was demonstrating at the heritage Centre in Durham last Saturday.  I have never seen one before and realised that it could be sued very creatively to produce some interesting effects.

Ripples on the Shore

Close up of sample piece by Jennie Parry

The close up shows the background fabric woven with a wave shuttle.

Vintage Upcycled by Cia Bosanquet

This lovely chair covering was created by Cia Bosanquet from Durham Guild.

It is always fascinating to see the source of inspiration for the pieces.  This wall hanging was inspired by N'jals Saga; a verse poem seen on a visit to the Stad Museum in Gothenburg. It is made with blends of the natural colours of Herwick fleece which is spun and then half dyed with red with the addition of black and white rovings. It was made by Caroline Thomson of the West of Scotland Guild. The poem is reproduced on the right.

N'Jals Saga retold.

Exhibitions like this are a delight to view but require a lot of hard work from the Guilds involved. The Guilds in Scotland and Northern Ireland should be proud of the excellent display.  They are Shetland, Clyde Coast, Isle of Arran, Edinburgh, Highland, Grampian, East Central Scotland, West of Scotland, Wigtownshire, Dumfries and Galloway, Tweed and Ulster Guilds. Thank you for all your hard work.

At the entrance to the exhibition there were volunteers spinning and knitting.  On the window ledge there were several Kilner jars of dyeing.

Solar dyeing takes time!

My Entry

My entry for the National Exhibition this year is a yellow silk stole. The inspiration for the weave was seeing a field of ripe corn blowing in the wind.  The corn seemed to ripple like waves on the sea.  A photograph cannot do justice to the view.

I have just received a lovely email about my scarf.  Fiona described her experience of viewing a field of waving corn and she has given permission for me to share it with you.

'On a windy day some weeks ago, I walked past a field of young corn.  I stopped to watch the wind making waves across the field, as if there were a thin sheet of very pale yellow silk billowing over it.  Then I realised that each individual stem was not just dipping and lifting, but also shimmying from side to side.  I watched in fascination for some time - knowing that I had no way of capturing it, except in memory.'

She expressed so beautifully in words my own viewing of field of waving corn which inspired this scarf.

Silk seemed the obvious choice. I wanted the stole to be a luxury item.  Silk has the wonderful property of reflecting light in so many directions depending upon the surface of the weave and how the material is draped.  I have taken a few pictures of the stole.  It is difficult to get an exact colour reproduction as the colour changes and shimmers in sunlight. Each of the photographs show a different shade of yellow.

Rolled up and displayed on my loom

I finished the stole with twisted fringes at both ends.

A long piece of weaving

The length is 225 cm and the width is 46 cm.

Close up of material

Here it is displayed in the exhibition.

My silk stole

I also had another item selected but I will show this in a later blog.

Weave Chart

Here is the weave chart for the yellow silk stole. I used a networked draft to create a swirly pattern.

Pattern draft

Warp and Weft

Warp 2/60 silk used double colour -pale straw 4085

Weft: 2/60 silk used double - colour 4020 and straw: colour 4082

Sett 36 epi

Pattern repeat is 143 ends.

Ends per inch: 36 epi

I used a  9 reed  so there are 4 ends per dent.

Silk is always a joy to weave.

STOP PRESS

At the exhibition I spoke to Liz from the Cheshire Guild.  She will be helping with the next National Exhibition. It will be held in Leigh Spinners Mill. http://leighspinnersmill.co.uk/  What an interesting venue.  I had not heard of this mill before so I must go and see it.

The theme will be Coal,Cotton,Canals   This gives plenty of scope for interpretation.

Start your creative journey now! Remember to create a small feely sample.

The non-juried section will have the theme of Still Waters and should be displayed in a 6 inch ring.


Happy Creating!

Susan J Foulkes

Brasilia

On the plane. 

Last month we had a long anticipated holiday in Brasilia.  We are interested in architecture and this city has been a place that we have longed to visit. I was not expecting to see many textiles as the architecture was our focus. However, there were some lovely examples of hand craft which I would like to share with you.

Map of Brasilia.  We stayed at a hotel in the centre (number 4 in the blue area)

Our hotel was in the middle of the main area and had amazing views. It was just what we had hoped for. It was a hotel for business people and conferences.

Daytime view. The building in front is a shopping centre next to the bus station.

The  Palacio do Congresso Nacional is in the distance. At the end of  our guided tour of this magnificent building we were given postcards which we could send for free to anywhere in the world.

View at night showing the illuminated buildings. 

We visited the museum called the Memorial dos Povos Indigenos, another building by Oscar Niemeyer.

An interesting collection of indigenous craft can be seen at this museum. Pottery, basketry and other items were displayed but there was no information in English.

The basketry was gorgeous.

Here is a close up of one of the basketry carriers.

The museum building was designed by Oscar Niemeyer and has a striking central area.

There was a small craft outlet which sells items made by the indigenous people and all profits go to them.  I bought a pair of ear rings make with coiled straw.

Straw earings

We stayed in the central area near the bus station, a very lively place. There are tourist hotels on the outskirts of Brasilia near the lake but we wanted to be in the centre. Brasilia is not fully geared for tourism as it is an administrative capital so postcards and other ephemera of holidays did not seem to be available. However, next to the TV tower there was a wonderful market open at weekends.

Torre de TV

The tower was being renovated but it was still possible to go up to the first level.  This was hosting a fascinating design exhibition. I just wish some of the items had been for sale.

The views were tremendous.

Yes I was really there!

The view from the other direction shows the market area.

The TV tower market used to be at the base of the tower. In 2011 it was relocated to its present position and purpose built accommodation was put in place. There are lots of food outlets as well as a range of local hand crafts.

It was interesting to see that the unofficial market also appears on Saturday mornings.

We were due to fly out on Saturday late afternoon so we walked up to the market early. This is definitely the place to go to see crafts of all kinds. But it was not just for visitors. Several shops sold furniture and two sold fitted kitchens.

These photographs will give you some idea of the range of crafts on sale.

Bags and jewelry.

This store sold musical instruments of all descriptions. An astonishing range of ways to make sound.

These chairs from recycled tyres were very comfortable.

Ceramics and jewellry

Hand made shoes of all types and colours. 

Inlay wood designs

The work on this stall was beautiful. We only took hand luggage so anything we bought had to be small and light. We purchased a set of small pickle forks in different woods.

Some larger items were also for sale!

And of course some textiles.

Friendship bracelets were everywhere. I bought a couple as a reminder of this amazing place. I had to have one in the colours of Brasil.

While we were in Brasilia, World Cup matches were being played.  Here is a picture of a normal day and the traffic.  On Friday morning Brasil were playing a match against Costa Rica.  All the Government offices were closed for that morning.  What a difference! It was like a ghost town. We saw very few people but could here lots of cheers every time Brasil scored.  At the end of the match there was an almighty explosion of noise from cheers and fireworks. Brasil won 2:0.

A normal work day.

The tall buildings in the background are some of the Ministry buildings.

Martin crossing an empty road

A deserted road on Friday morning when everyone was watching the football on television.

We had a wonderful four days.  There was so much to see and there are still some further buildings which we would love to investigate. We will have to go back.

Susan J Foulkes July 2018

I thought that I would add a few more photographs of this wonderful city. The shapes of the buildings and interiors are an inspiration.
Here is a view of the cathedral interior.  The stained glass and the sweeping shapes are awe inspiring;.

Interior of the cathedral with flying angels. 

.
Here are two incredibly photogenic staircases.  Again the sweeping flow of the stairs make a dramatic statement in the open space.

Stairs in the Itarmarty Palace

Stairs in the theatre. 

Unfortunately the theatre is closed to the public apart from the entrance foyer.  The stairs and the indoor garden are breathtaking.

The theatre building is in the form of a truncated pyramid.  On two of the outer walls there is a sculpture called The Sun has Fun.

The Sun has Fun

It was particularly effective and we went back several times to see the different shadows on the walls.

Room divider

This is a room divider in the Itarmarty palace.  I thought that this would be an inspiration for a weave pattern.  I will have to do some work on this idea.

I loved my holiday in Brasilia and would love to go back.

Susan J Foulkes  September 2018