My latest book has been published by Schiffer. In the UK it will become available at the end of the month.
More than 140 patterns are included, along with principles for planning your own unique designs for contemporary uses such as straps, belts, bracelets, and even handfasting bands. The breathtaking range of colorful bands woven in Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Norway are explored and offer additional inspiration.'
You can order this book through the Handweavers Studio, London, on Amazon and from the Book Depository UK.
In the USA, it is available from The Woolery who are based in Frankfort, Kentucky: https://woolery.com/weaving-patterned-bands.html
I made two YouTube videos to accompany the book.
1. Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads: https://youtu.be/9OUkBSN8LtI
2. Weaving a patterned band on a floor inkle loom: https://youtu.be/k9Jhd80mBsQ
Weaving Patterned Bands
In this post I will discuss starting to weave with 5 pattern threads. This is an excellent way to start weaving if you have never tried before and a good introduction to this fascinating craft for young people. My book has 54 pattern charts for 5 pattern threads.
This post will show the threading for using a 9 pattern slot heddle, a 5 pattern slot heddle and an inkle loom (or standard heddle). For those of you with a 13 patten slot heddle, the threading will also be given. You will need to navigate the blog to find the appropriate section.
All the patterns can be woven using either a 9 pattern slot heddle, a standard heddle or an inkle loom.
There will be two further posts, one about weaving with 7 pattern threads next month and another about weaving with 9 pattern threads in November.
Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads.
Threading the 9 pattern slot heddle.
I made a YouTube video showing how to make the warp and thread a 9 pattern slot Sunna heddle.You can also make the warp on a warping frame as shown in a previous blog. https://durhamweaver64.blogspot.com/2018/07/making-warp-and-threading-9-pattern.html
YouTube video: https://youtu.be/iE-my-qxFwA
NOTE: This 9 pattern slot heddle can be used to weave bands with 5, 7, and 9 pattern threads.
Using a 9 pattern slot heddle for bands with 5 pattern threads.
This blog will look at five pattern threads. Look at the threading chart. Note the empty slots on either side. |
| The threading chart |
Here is the threading chart for using the 9 pattern slot heddle for 5 pattern threads. Note that there will be a total of four empty slots and holes on each side indicate by X.
For this band you can have a maximum of 14 border threads on each side. Look at the threading for the border threads. The sequence from the centre is long slot then hole and finishes with a warp thread through a hole. It is important to keep this sequence. Therefore there is an empty hole and an empty long slot as well as two empty pattern slots on each side.
You can see the empty slots and holes for the 9 pattern slot heddle.
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| Five pattern threads on a 9 pattern thread heddle. |
The Pattern Chart: noughts and crosses
This pattern chart is for 5 pattern threads. Only the pattern threads are shown on the chart.They are coloured purple and pale blue. I think that it is helpful for beginners to have the centre pattern thread a different colour.
Here is the simple OXOX pattern which is a common pattern around the Baltic.
When weaving with only five pattern threads, you will need to pay particular attention to band width. Pull the weft to keep the band width even.
The heddle is lifted for the even numbered picks and lowered for the odd numbered picks. So when you start you will lift the heddle for pick A
Ignore the dots on the chart at this stage. They are a very useful guide when copying pattern charts and are particularly useful for weavers using an inkle loom.
Watch my YouTube video.
It will be helpful at this stage to watch my video: Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads. I am using a 5 pattern slot heddle but the pick up is the same for using 5 pattern threads on a 9 pattern slot heddle.
Here is the link: Weaving bands with 5 pattern threads
https://youtu.be/9OUkBSN8LtI
Stage 1.
You need to attach the non-weaving end of the warp to a belt around your waist. This can be something as simple as a cord or a wider belt.
Tie the loose ends of the warp around the cord ensuring that the heddle is lying straight and not tilted.
Stage 2.
Deepening upon the colours of the background threads, wind some thread of the same colour onto the shuttle.
You will need two smooth sticks or coffee stirrers to start the woven band.
Look at the pattern chart. Lift the heddle in your right hand and use the shuttle in your left hand. All the pattern threads will be in a straight line in the centre of the two layers of background threads.
For the first pick A you can see that there are three coloured squares. Use the end of the shuttle to pick the first then the centre and then the first pattern thread. Do not take the shuttle through but turn it onto its side to hold the shed open. Now insert one of the sticks.
Stage 3
Now look at pick B. Lower the heddle with your left hand. take the shuttlein your right hand and pick up two pattern threads, 2 and 4. Turn the shuttle onto its side to hold the shed open then insert the second stick.
You have now provided a firm base on which to start weaving.
You are now ready to use the weft.
1.Start again at pick A with the shuttle in your left hand. Raise the heddle with your right hand and pick up the three pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares on the pattern chart. Take the shuttle through leaving a small tail of weft yarn on the left side.
2. Look at pick B. There are two coloured squares on the chart. Lower the heddle with your left and and use the tip of the shuttle to pick up pattern threads 2 and 4. Take the shuttle through and bring it to the fell on the band. You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle onto its edge and take the small tail of weft yarn through from the left side to the right. Take the shuttle through to the left.
You have now secured the weft at the beginning of the band so that it will not unravel.
3. Look at pick C. It is the same as pick A. Raise the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Take the shuttle through to the right hand side and pull the weft taut.
4. Look at pick D. It is the same as pick C. Lower the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Take the shuttle through to the left and pull the weft taut.
You are now ready to start the pattern. The pattern for this band is 18 picks. Raise the heddle in your right hand. Take the shuttle in your left hand.
Pick 1
Start with pick 1 and carefully choose the correct pattern thread. For pick 1 only one square is coloured in. It is the centre pattern thread of the five. Insert the shuttle and pick up the centre pattern thread. Beat by taking the shuttle down to the fell of the band. You can now check that you have picked up the correct pattern thread.
Take the shuttle and weft through to the right leaving a tail of yarn on the left.
Pick 2
Lower the heddle with your left hand. Look at the pattern chart. There are three pattern thread indicated. Pickup the centre three pattern threads with the point of the shuttle. Take the shuttle to the fell of the band and beat. You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle on edge and feed the loose end of the weft thread into the shed so that it comes out on the right. Now take the shuttle through to the left. There are two weft threads in the same shed. This helps to prevent the weaving from unravelling when you have finished the band. Pull the weft on the shuttle to the left and the loose thread of weft to the right to make the band width narrow. The warp threads should cover the weft and the pattern threads should be touching.
Pick 3
Look at the pattern chart. There are five pattern threads showing on the surface. This pick is easy. Raise the heddle with your right hand. Insert the shuttle under all the pattern threads. This brings them all to the surface. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band and beat. You should see all five pattern threads.
Here are two simple bands with these two motifs. The top band is in cotton and the bottom band is woven in wool.
For those of you with a 13 pattern slot heddle, here is the threading diagram. All the grey squares represent holes or slots which will be empty. Only two border threads are shown adjacent to the pattern threads.
The border threads need to follow the correct threading order for a plain weave structure.
With the 9 pattern slot heddle you can see that there is one border thread in a long slot after the pattern area then a slot and hole which are empty. Then another border thread threaded through a hole then another empty slot and hole. The rest of the border area can be threaded normally.
With the 13 pattern slot heddle the plain weave threading for the border would contain more empty slots and holes making it difficult for a beginner to get the proper tension and width for the woven band. It can be done but it requires patience and skill. I would recommend just using two border threads until you feel confident.
Here is the complete threading for the 13 pattern slot heddle. X denotes an empty hole or slot.
You can use up to 18 border threads on each side.
Happy Weaving!
For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. The pattern threads are twice as thick as the background and border threads. For this threading there are four border threads on each side. The five pattern threads are shown in red.
When you raise the heddle, the centre pattern thread numbered 3 (and pattern threads 1 and 5) will appear on the surface. If you look carefully at the pattern draft you will see that some squares have small dots. This indicates the pattern threads that will appear on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern.
Weaving a patterned band on a floor inkle loom: https://youtu.be/k9Jhd80mBsQ
Weaving hearts with STOORSTÅLKA Band weaving kit Sunna 5
https://youtu.be/d2A1K8oEWTU
This heddle can be used with a back strap, in a box loom or on a larger inkle loom.
Here is the threading for the Sunna heddle with 5 pattern slots. The 5 pattern threads are numbered and are indicated in red. They should be at least twice as thick as the background and border threads. You can use as many border threads as there are slots and holes in the heddle. I have only indicated four border threads on each side on this diagram. The Sunna 5 heddle has room for 12 border threads on each side.
Here is the pattern chart for the simple pattern in white on a green background.
There are 40 picks for the pattern repeat but it is very easy to learn. Remember that on the odd numbered picks the heddle should be raised and the even numbered picks the heddle should be lowered.
The white pattern threads are twice the thickness of green background threads. The weft is green.
The Sunna heddles and kit can be brought direct from Stoorstålka.
Here is a new outlet for the Sunna heddle including the Sunna 5 kit. They sell rigid heddles, inkle looms and yarn in very useful small amounts.Their shop is an Aladdin's cave. Well worth browsing the online shop or better still visit their beautiful shop in London. https://www.handweavers.co.uk/
Setting up to weave.
For this stage you will be inserting two sticks into two sheds to provide a firm straight base to start the weaving.
You need to attach the non-weaving end of the warp to a belt around your waist. This can be something as simple as a cord or a wider belt.
Tie the loose ends of the warp around the cord ensuring that the heddle is lying straight and not tilted.
Stage 2.
Deepening upon the colours of the background threads, wind some thread of the same colour onto the shuttle.
You will need two smooth sticks or coffee stirrers to start the woven band.
Look at the pattern chart. Lift the heddle in your right hand and use the shuttle in your left hand. All the pattern threads will be in a straight line in the centre of the two layers of background threads.
For the first pick A you can see that there are three coloured squares. Use the end of the shuttle to pick the first then the centre and then the first pattern thread. Do not take the shuttle through but turn it onto its side to hold the shed open. Now insert one of the sticks.
Stage 3
Now look at pick B. Lower the heddle with your left hand. take the shuttlein your right hand and pick up two pattern threads, 2 and 4. Turn the shuttle onto its side to hold the shed open then insert the second stick.
You have now provided a firm base on which to start weaving.
Starting the band.
You are now ready to use the weft.
1.Start again at pick A with the shuttle in your left hand. Raise the heddle with your right hand and pick up the three pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares on the pattern chart. Take the shuttle through leaving a small tail of weft yarn on the left side.
2. Look at pick B. There are two coloured squares on the chart. Lower the heddle with your left and and use the tip of the shuttle to pick up pattern threads 2 and 4. Take the shuttle through and bring it to the fell on the band. You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle onto its edge and take the small tail of weft yarn through from the left side to the right. Take the shuttle through to the left.
You have now secured the weft at the beginning of the band so that it will not unravel.
3. Look at pick C. It is the same as pick A. Raise the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Take the shuttle through to the right hand side and pull the weft taut.
4. Look at pick D. It is the same as pick C. Lower the heddle. Pick up the pattern threads as indicated by the coloured squares. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band to beat in the weft and also to check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Take the shuttle through to the left and pull the weft taut.
Weaving.
You are now ready to start the pattern. The pattern for this band is 18 picks. Raise the heddle in your right hand. Take the shuttle in your left hand.
Pick 1
Start with pick 1 and carefully choose the correct pattern thread. For pick 1 only one square is coloured in. It is the centre pattern thread of the five. Insert the shuttle and pick up the centre pattern thread. Beat by taking the shuttle down to the fell of the band. You can now check that you have picked up the correct pattern thread.
Take the shuttle and weft through to the right leaving a tail of yarn on the left.
Pick 2
Lower the heddle with your left hand. Look at the pattern chart. There are three pattern thread indicated. Pickup the centre three pattern threads with the point of the shuttle. Take the shuttle to the fell of the band and beat. You can check that you have picked up the correct pattern threads. Now turn the shuttle on edge and feed the loose end of the weft thread into the shed so that it comes out on the right. Now take the shuttle through to the left. There are two weft threads in the same shed. This helps to prevent the weaving from unravelling when you have finished the band. Pull the weft on the shuttle to the left and the loose thread of weft to the right to make the band width narrow. The warp threads should cover the weft and the pattern threads should be touching.
Pick 3
Look at the pattern chart. There are five pattern threads showing on the surface. This pick is easy. Raise the heddle with your right hand. Insert the shuttle under all the pattern threads. This brings them all to the surface. Take the shuttle to the fell on the band and beat. You should see all five pattern threads.
Here are two simple bands with these two motifs. The top band is in cotton and the bottom band is woven in wool.
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| Colour and material can make a difference. The top band is in pearl cotton and the bottom band is in wool. |
Using a 13 pattern slot heddle.
For those of you with a 13 pattern slot heddle, here is the threading diagram. All the grey squares represent holes or slots which will be empty. Only two border threads are shown adjacent to the pattern threads.
The border threads need to follow the correct threading order for a plain weave structure.
With the 9 pattern slot heddle you can see that there is one border thread in a long slot after the pattern area then a slot and hole which are empty. Then another border thread threaded through a hole then another empty slot and hole. The rest of the border area can be threaded normally.
With the 13 pattern slot heddle the plain weave threading for the border would contain more empty slots and holes making it difficult for a beginner to get the proper tension and width for the woven band. It can be done but it requires patience and skill. I would recommend just using two border threads until you feel confident.
Here is the complete threading for the 13 pattern slot heddle. X denotes an empty hole or slot.
You can use up to 18 border threads on each side.
 |
| Threading chart for a 13 pattern slot heddle using only 5 pattern threads and 18 border threads on each side. |
Happy Weaving!
Using a standard heddle or an inkle loom.
Patterns can also be woven using a standard heddle or on an inkle loom.
 |
| Threading for standard heddle. |
For an inkle loom, the heddled threads are indicated by the hole and the unheddled threads by the slot. Note that the centre pattern thread is always threaded through the centre hole in the heddle. The pattern threads are twice as thick as the background and border threads. For this threading there are four border threads on each side. The five pattern threads are shown in red.
When you raise the heddle, the centre pattern thread numbered 3 (and pattern threads 1 and 5) will appear on the surface. If you look carefully at the pattern draft you will see that some squares have small dots. This indicates the pattern threads that will appear on the surface when you raise or lower the heddle. When using the pattern draft, you may have to bring up a pattern thread from the bottom layer or push down a pattern thread from the top layer to weave the pattern.
YouTube Videos
See my YouTube video: Weaving narrow warp faced bands.Weaving a patterned band on a floor inkle loom: https://youtu.be/k9Jhd80mBsQ
Using a Sunna double slotted heddle with 5 pattern threads.
Here is a video from Stoorstalka using their band weaving kit for 5 pattern threads.Weaving hearts with STOORSTÅLKA Band weaving kit Sunna 5
https://youtu.be/d2A1K8oEWTU
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| A close up of the Sunna double slotted heddle with 5 pattern slots. |
This heddle can be used with a back strap, in a box loom or on a larger inkle loom.
Threading the Sunna 5 heddle.
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| Threading for Sunna 5 double slotted heddle |
To help beginners learn to weave, there is a useful videos from Stoorstalka.
Weaving Zigzag pattern with Stoorstalka band weaving kit Sunna 5.
Click here to view it. https://youtu.be/1yY2Vm_xBPI
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| Pattern chart. |
Weaving with the Sunna 5 heddle.
Pattern chart for arrows and a cross.
Here is a pattern for you to try with the Sunna 5 heddle. The five white pattern threads (shown as green on the weave draft) are threaded through the 5 shorter slots on the heddle. The pattern threads are twice as thick as the background and border threads. The pattern draft only shows the pattern threads which should appear on the surface of the band.
Here is the pattern chart for the simple pattern in white on a green background.
There are 40 picks for the pattern repeat but it is very easy to learn. Remember that on the odd numbered picks the heddle should be raised and the even numbered picks the heddle should be lowered.
The white pattern threads are twice the thickness of green background threads. The weft is green.
 |
| Top side of woven band |
 |
| Reverse side of woven band |
Both sides of the band have lovely patterns.
Stockists.
The Sunna heddles and kit can be brought direct from Stoorstålka.
Stoorstålka sell rigid heddles and shuttles for weaving narrow bands. They ship items worldwide. They supply double slotted heddles (the Sunna heddles) and double holed heddles (the Beavi heddle) as well as standard heddles with long slots and holes. Their web site is https://shop.stoorstalka.com/en/start.html
If you are in the USA, Canada, Australia or Japan, Stoorstålka have a dedicated web site at
For Norway go to https://no.stoorstalka.com/nb/
UK: London
Here is a new outlet for the Sunna heddle including the Sunna 5 kit. They sell rigid heddles, inkle looms and yarn in very useful small amounts.Their shop is an Aladdin's cave. Well worth browsing the online shop or better still visit their beautiful shop in London. https://www.handweavers.co.uk/
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| Handweavers Studio London. |
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| The Sunna 5 Kit: everything you need to start to learn this wonderful craft. |
Happy weaving
Next month I will take you through weaving with 7 pattern threads.
My latest book has been published this month by Schiffer and is available from Handweavers Studio, and Amazon.
'Narrow bands woven in colorful patterns are a centuries-old part of Baltic craft tradition. The double slotted heddle makes patterned band weaving quicker to learn and easier to do, and this is the first book that offers beginners instructions for using it. The craft doesn't involve bulky equipment―all you need can be stored in a shoe box! Learn how to weave these beautiful bands step by step, from the simple 5 pattern threads to the more complex 7 and 9 patterns. Color photographs illustrate the instructions for learning to weave.
More than 140 patterns are included, along with principles for planning your own unique designs for contemporary uses such as straps, belts, bracelets, and even handfasting bands. The breathtaking range of colorful bands woven in Sweden, Finland, Russia, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, and Norway are explored and offer additional inspiration.'
In the USA, it is available from The Woolery who are based in Frankfort, Kentucky: https://woolery.com/weaving-patterned-bands.html
