Disc weaving with 15 warp threads.

 I have organised a disc weaving workshop for the members of the Durham Guild of Spinners Weavers and Dyers. I thought that it would be useful to put some of the information into my blog.

I wrote about this technique in May 2023 in this blog. I had written two articles for the Journal of the Braid Society about my research and also ran a workshop for members. 

https://thebraidsociety.wildapricot.org/

The Braid Society has an excellent group called Braids and Bands - it is well worth joining. 

braidsandbands@groups.io

I made a YouTube video to accompany the two articles :  

Disc Weaving: making a tubular filled cord 

                                 https://youtu.be/W7miDg2bix4

Weaving a filled tubular cord with a weaving disc. 

What is disc weaving?

With the warp ends arranged in a circle and a central core thread, a patterned cord can be woven in warp-faced plain weave. The weft is not visible as the warp ends are pulled tightly together. The central core thread makes the cord strong. 

The weft is entered from the same side for the whole of the weaving. The disc is rotated. This means that unlike other weaving methods, the warp is not in a static horizontal plane but moves around as the weft is entered. 

 I experimented to find out the most efficient and effective way of weaving.  I discovered that the disc itself does not need to be circular. It is the pattern of holes that need to be arranged in a circle. I had a new set of discs made with 15  holes in a square.  They are lovely.  The person who designed them for me put a depiction of the Durham Cathedral sanctuary knocker in the centre as they were for the Durham Guild.

I am using dk cotton for the pattern.  I was not sure how many core threads would be suitable.  I tried with four but that was too many.  The cord was difficult to weave evenly.  I removed two of the core threads after a couple of inches weaving as you can see.  Now the cord is weaving well.

Threading the disc.

Threading the disc.

First make the warp for the cord.  Thread the disc by putting the disc on the edge of a table so that the empty holes can be seen. For this warp I used 6/2 cotton.

Thread the 15 pattern threads first.

Threading the warp.

Now add in the  centre filling cord.

Adding the filling cord

You are now ready to start weaving.

Seizenn Loom Pattern Generator. 

This pattern has been created using the excellent software which is provided so generously.  Go to the web site.  

Go to the web site.  

https://www.raktres.net/seizenn/v2/#/

Look down the list of pattern types on the left hand side. 

 For disc weaving there is a picture of a disc. Edit pattern for disc loom.  The instructions are easy to follow.  You can change the number of holes and then add the correct colours to the loom palatte.

This pattern 

You can see the threading for this pattern. The 15 holes are numbered. You can generate your own patterns and take a screen shot to save it.

These discs can be made from cardboard so you do not have to buy a purposes made one - although they are lovely to hold. 

Here is a picture from one of my articles showing a variety of discs. 

Four discs and four types of shuttles.

Uses for filled woven cords.

Cords can be used in drawstring bags or as bag ties.  They make sturdy shoe laces.  

Lotus bag with two drawstring cords.

Bag ties

Fixing an aglet to both ends of a band for laces.

Have fun! 

If you want to know more about the Durham Cathedral sanctuary knocker, here is the link to their web site.

https://www.durhamworldheritagesite.com/learn/architecture/cathedral/intro/sanctuary-knocker

Here are two photos I took last week.

Durham Cathedral door

The replica knocker

Susan J Foulkes  April 2026

A Tasuki Cord.

A tasuki (襷/たすき) is a fashion accessory used for holding up the long sleeves of the Japanese kimono. It is a sash made from either cloth or cord that loops over each shoulder and crosses over the wearer's back.

Tasuki were traditionally worn in Japan by everyone from the samurai to the average individual as a means of tying back the long sleeves of kimono sode or sleeved garments.

The tasuki allowed the kimono wearer to work without large sleeves getting in the way of the job, and without risking damage to the garment's sleeves.

In modern Japan, tasuki were used by many people as everyday practical accessories, but in ancient Japan they were an exclusive accessory used by the Shinto clergy during ceremonies. Tasuki can be made of silk or cotton.

The length is generally about 230 cm / 89 inches. The width can be up to 4 cm approx 1.5 inches.

Here is a useful guide to tying a tasuki.

How to tie tasuki  https://youtu.be/qs6y2gOfQfI

Another way is this:

How to tie up your kimono sleeves.

https://youtu.be/S19eKA_8AW0?si=5b3kTpQ7fm9-6GXA

 How to tie a belt for men 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcitAROOg7I

I first became aware of tasuki whilst watching a Kurasawa film, Sanjuro,  many years ago. In it a group of young samurai quickly ready themselves for action. 
I have two beautiful haori jackets. I have woven a tasuki cord for both of them.

Here is the band I wove in warp faced plain weave in 16/2 cotton. 

My woven tasuki cord

This is my second haori jacket.  I designed a band in orange and brown with sufficient variation so that the band shows against the silk cloth.

This is a single layer band with 73 warp ends of 16/2 cotton. 

The weft was 16/2 cotton used triple. 

The length after washing is 240 cm. The width is 17 mm. 

This cord was too narrow so I designed a new wider cord.  It is woven in 16/2 cotton. The width is 3.7 cm.

Two tasuki cords.

Here is the drawdown

 Happy weaving 

Susan J Foulkes  July 2025

Weaving a double weave band: tubular or flat?

Weaving a tubular cord on a four shaft loom.

On a four shaft loom the sequence it is easy to weave a tubular band.  For the tubular band there are two layers; woven separately but joined by the weft at each side. 

Layer one is threaded on shafts 1 and 3 to weave plain or warp faced plain weave. Layer two is threaded on shaft 2 and 4. 

The weaving sequence is:

1. Lift shaft 1  and take the shuttle through from left to right
2. Lift shafts 134 and take the shuttle through from right to left.
3. Lift shaft 2 and take the shuttle through from left to right
4. Lift shafts 123 and take the shuttle through from right to left. 

The weft spirals through the warp ends to make a tube. If the width of the band is narrow then the finished band will be a tube.  If there are more warp ends then the finished tube will flatten out and become a flat tubular band. 

Kusti weavers use the same principle to weave their sacred tubular cord.

https://youtu.be/sXr8m4voDfk

https://youtu.be/p1enzWvB8m8

A Tasuki Band

A tasuki band is a long piece of cloth or band which  ties up the sleeves of a kimono or similar garment to ensure that the sleeves are kept out of the way when working. 

Samurai warriors also used a tasuki sash to tie up their long sleeves. These would prove a handicap when using a sword or for archery. 

I first became aware of them when watching a 1962 Kurasawa film - Sanjuro. I was fascinated by the quick automatic movements to tie up their sleeves when a group of young Samuari are about to go into action. 

Tasuki are usually about 230 - 250 cm in length and can be narrow but nowadays are more often about 4 cms in width. Usually they are a single  layer of cloth. 

I wove a tubular tasuki cord.  The cord is made from synthetic yarn, rayon, and is tubular.  Rayon is not the material that I should have used but i was interested in seeing how well it wove as a double cloth. One side is a plain white colour and the other side is stripes of green. Unfortunately I did not put a long enough warp on the loom and the cord is just too short. 

Details of my first Tasuki Cord.

Warp ends in total: 95

Layer one: 47 ends three shades of green acrylic  These are threaded on shafts 1 and 3

Layer two: 48 warp ends of white. These are threaded on shafts 2 and 4. 

Weft: 2 strands of green cotton.

Width: 14 mm

Finished length just under 200 cms   However it needs to be at least 230 cms in length. 

Top layer of warp ends. 

Here is the tubular tasuki cord.

Rayon was a difficult yarn to weave. It is very slippery and I found it hard to keep to an even tension. You can see the ridges of the weaving are uneven. 

Instructions for Tying the Cord.

Here is an elegant way of tying a tasuki cord. 

https://youtu.be/9blUgVEISgE

A more practical approach is shown here.

https://youtu.be/qs6y2gOfQfI?si=IuLBWC9DwpfyzLtC

Kusti weavers use the same principle to weave their sacred tubular cord.

https://youtu.be/sXr8m4voDfk

https://youtu.be/p1enzWvB8m8

It is particularly fascinating to know that narrow tubular bands were also woven in ancient Egypt. I saw a simple narrow tubular band around dating to the 1st century BCE in a museum recently. It was wrapped around a mummy on top of the usual close wrapping bands. It was broken in one area and it was clear that this was a woven tubular band.  It also had a twisted cord inside the tube. I suspect from the way it looked that this twisted group of fibres was added after the tube was woven. The tubular band was wide enough to see this central fibre cord inside which had plenty of room. Perhaps the centre filling was added to make the band firmer.

Happy Weaving.

Susan J Foulkes  Febrary 2025

Vaskinde Heddle from Sweden

The Vaskinde heddle was found in Sweden and dates from the late middle ages   1350 - 1500. It is made from moose antler and is 4.7 by 4.5 cm. It has a delicate decoration.

The original is in the Nordiska Museum in Stockholm and can be viewed here:

https://samlingar.shm.se/object/08C1C4DE-E1A6-4D75-BEF5-866784624914

The original Vaskinde heddle

In Sweden, Martinsson and Eriksson have made a copy which  are as similar to the original as possible in size and shape. Size 5.5 x 5.5 cm made in modern materials.

https://www.m-e.se/handelsbod/band.html

They also publish a small booklet of patterns for the heddle. The booklet has patterns for 13 warp ends and also different variations. number of patterns with 13 threads. The booklet describes sample weavings and shows how to make more variations.

They also make a miniature version of the heddle which is a challenge but lovely to use.  I wove an narrow warp faced band and finished with a tubular section. 

The small version of the heddle

Robin Goatey at thedancinggoats has also made a slightly larger version. 

 https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/TheDancingGoats

The Vaskinde heddle and shuttle from Robin Goatey.

This is the threading for the wool warp on the larger wooden Vaskinde heddle. Note that the outer two holes are used. the weft is black wool.

The reproductions from Sweden come in different colours.  Here are two with the weaving in progress. 

Two reproduction heddles in plastic.

Weaving a band using the Vaskinde heddle.

Here is a short video.  The Vaskinde heddle is threaded with 11 warp ends and is woven using a backstrap. The warp and weft are 16/2 linen. The weft is white 16/2 linen.

Here is the drawdown showing the threading.

Note that the outer two holes are not used for this band so the threading starts on a slot.

Happy New Year

and, of course, Happy Weaving 

A longer version of the video can be seen on my YouTube channel

https://youtu.be/GGPQlU7TLEIJ 

Susan J Foulkes   January 2026